MERA PEAK CLIMBING

Trip Facts

  •  Trip Duration:  19 Days
  •  Activities:  Trekking & Climbing
  •  Country:  Nepal
  •  Grade:  A
  •  Group Size:  2-12
  •  Price:  2500 US $
  •  Trip Style:  Camping & Lodge
  •  Diffculty:  Hard
  •  Best Season:  Sep.-Nov. & March.-June
  •  Transport:  Flight

Overview

Mera Peak is the highest of the permitted “Trekking Peaks” in Nepal. The trek begins by flying into the heart of the Himalaya to the village of Lukla. From here you will cross a high pass into a remote valley and steadily acclimate, as you have to move toward base camp & establish a high camp on the glacier from where you will attempt the summit.

 

From the summit of Mera one can see 5 of the 6 highest mountains in the world: Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyo. The standard route from the north involves little more than high altitude glacier walking. The ease of reaching this elevation may be its biggest danger but good weather and snow conditions are, of course, necessary for safety and success. The west and south faces of the peak offer difficult technical routes.

 

This is a great trek and climb in an ancient land where Sherpas still graze yaks, cook on yak dung fires and live a very simple life. Porters to make our trip more enjoyable and culturally interesting will carry our food and equipment.

 

By its standard route from the Mera La, the ascent is technically straightforward; however, after a heavy fall of snow or when the maze of crevasses are open, the way can be long and demanding. Far and above the most rewarding aspect of a trip to Mera is a chance to venture into a little-visited and as yet unspoiled region of Nepal where the hillsides are still densely forested and a need to be self-sufficient is essential. There is also, of course, the pleasure of going above 6.000m.

 

This is the perfect trip for the mountaineer who wants to make the most of his / her Himalayan adventure by living in unique culture and climbing in traditional Himalayan alpine style.

 

A Sherpa guide (Sirdar), cook team will support your trek and climb. We spend a significant amount of time acclimating to new altitudes to increase safety and comfort levels. We cover basic mountaineering skills on the glacier prior to your climb.

Itinerary

  • Day 01

    Arrive in Kathmandu

    Welcome to the Himalayan country of Nepal! Upon your arrival at the Tribhuvan International Airport one of Community Trek representatives will be there to welcome you before taking you to your hotel in Kathmandu.

    (Pick up from Airport and drop to your Hotel) (1335 Meters ) (Hotel)
  • Day 02

    Sightseeing and Preparation

    A half day guided tour to several of historical and spiritual attractions enlisted under the World Heritage Sites. The trek leader will meet the group for a meeting and provide a detailed briefing on the trek. All the required information regarding the trek will be provided.

    (Breakfast) (1335 Meters ) (Hotel)
  • Day 03

    Fly to Lukla and explore around Lukla

    After breakfast, we will be taken to the domestic terminal of TIA for an early morning flight to Lukla. After flying above the breathtaking green and white mountains, we reach Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains. We spend the remainder of the day resting and acclimatizing. We explore the nearby villages or the bustling, small town of Lukla.  Overnight in Lukla.

    (30 Minute flight to Lukla) (BLD) ((2730m/8954ft)) (Teahouse)
  • Day 04

    Trek to Chutanga

    The day is spent on an easy hike to gain an altitude of more than 500-600 meters and then a free afternoon to rest follows. This day is very important as the trek quickly enters into higher altitudes of more than 4000 meters on the very next day.

    (BLD) ( 3,430 m/11,250 ft.) (3-4 hours) (Teahouse)
  • Day 05

    Trek to Thuli Kharka (4320m/13200ft) via Zwatra la

     

    (BLD) (4600 m/14720 ft.) (5-6 hours) (Teahouse)
  • Day 06

    Trek to Kothe

    Following breakfast we follow a delightful descending trail across three ridges, before dropping steeply down to the Hinku River and a final uphill to Kothe  through lush rhododendron forests on the west side of the Hinku Valley . Rhododendron is the national flower of Nepal and on our journey we get to admire beautiful hills dotted with rhododendrons. Overnight in Kothe.

    (BLD) (3600 m. /11808ft.) (5-6 hours) (Teahouse)
  • Day 07

    Trek to Thangnak

    We trek along the ridge of the Hinku Khola in the shadow of Mera Peak. We take lunch at Gondishung, the summer herders’ settlement in the west bank of the Hinku Drangka. Beyond Gondishung, we pass a 200 year-old Lungsumgba Gompa where we can find Mera Peak scripted in rock along with its route to reach Mera. A short walk takes us to Thaknak, which is a summer grazing area with primitive lodges and shops. Overnight in Thaknak.

    (BLD) (4356 Meters ) (4-5 hours) (Teahouse)
  • Day 8

    Trek to Khare

    Leaving Thaknak, we follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers, and then climbs more steeply to Khare. From here, we can view the Northern face of Mera Peak which will be an amazing experience. After lunch one can engage in hikes in the surroundings of Khare. Overnight at Khare.

    (BLD) (5045 Meters ) (4-5 hours) (Teahouse)
  • Day 09

    Acclimatization day at Khare

    Today the guides will carry out the last minute checking of the gears for the climb, and then arrange if any equipment becomes necessary to rent. Thereafter, we shall provide training on peak climbing techniques and the proper ways of using climbing gears such as the ice axe, climbing boots and crampons, harness, ascender, etc. The training will also include using ropes to go up and down. Although it is not mandatory to have prior training for Mera Peak Base Camp, we strongly believe that some training experience will boost your confidence and your climbing skills to increase the chances of scaling the summit as well as to fully enjoy the experience.  Overnight at Khare.

    (BLD) (5045 Meters ) (Teahouse)
  • Day 10

    Khare to Mera Base Camp

    Today after breakfast, we walk through a boulder-strewn courseon a steep trail to reach Mera Peak Base Camp. Upon reaching the base camp, we rest for a while. If anyone feels the previous training was not sufficient and wants to train more to build confidence to succeed the climb, there can be an additional training on climb provided. Rest of the day would be to rest and prepare for the next day.

    (BLD) (5300 Meters ) (4-5 hours) (Camp)
  • Day 11

    Trek to Mera High Camp

    We take the route through Mera La pass to reach the Mera High Camp today. Our path is along a rocky trail, which can be hazardous if it has recently snowed, as there are a number of crevasses here. We make our way to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn. We set up a high camp while enjoying excellent views of Mt. Everest, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, south face of Lhotse, Nuptse, Chamlang and Baruntse. Overnight at Mera High Camp.

    (BLD) (5780 Meters ) (4-5 hours) (Camp)
  • Day 12

    Summit attempt for Mera and trek back to Khare

    This is a really big day for us as we will be summiting Mera Peak today. We wake up around 2 in the morning for breakfast. It’s going to be very cold in the beginning but soon we warm up as we continue up the glacier and onto a peculiar ridge. The first rays of the sun hit the big peaks in an amazing red glow. The route is still non-technical as we slowly climb higher into the ever-thinning air. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and the summit comes back into view. At the foot of the final steep summit cone, we may attach to a fixed rope depending on the conditions. The summit is only a few meters away. From the summit, we take in amazing views of the mighty Himalayas including Mt. Everest (8,848m), Cho-Oyu (8,210m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,463m), Kangchenjunga (8,586m), Nuptse (7,855m), Chamlang (7,319m), Baruntse (7 ,129m) and others. Later, we retrace our steps back to the high camp where we rest for a while before descending to Khare. Overnight in Khare.

    (BLD) (6476 Meters ) (8 - 10 hours) (Camp)
  • Day 13

    Extra/Spare Day

    This spare day can be used in case of bad weather on the day of the summit attempt. This day can also be used as an extra day for acclimatization.

    (BLD) (6476 Meters ) (Camp)
  • Day 14

    Trek to Kothe

    We trek from Khare to Kothe along the same trail used previously. After reaching Kothe, we celebrate our success by trying out local delicacies and wines. Overnight in Kothe.

    (BLD) (3691 meters) (6 hours) (Teahouse)
  • Day 15

    Trek to Thuli Kharka

    It is an uphill trek through lush rhododendron forests on the west side of the Hinku Valley to Thuli Kharka. Rhododendron is the national flower of Nepal and on our journey we get to admire beautiful hills dotted with rhododendrons. After reaching Thuli Kharka, we enjoy remarkable views of Mera North, Mera Central and South face.

    (BLD) (4300 meters) (5-6 hours) (Teahouse)
  • Day 16

    Trek to Lukla

    We begin today’s trek by ascending to Zatrwa La Pass. As soon as we cross the pass, we are welcomed by the sight of the beautiful Lukla Valley which is surrounded by Cho Oyu, Kongde Peak, Numbur Himal, Kusum Khangru and other Himalayan peaks. From Zatrwa La Pass we walk all the way down to Chutanga and then straight forward to the Lukla village. In the evening we enjoy dinner in the Himalayas of Nepal with our crew. Overnight in Lukla.

    (BLD) (2850 Meters ) (6 - 7 hours) (Teahouse)
  • Day 17

    Fly back to Kathmandu

    A 25 minutes flight to Kathmandu and a whole day to explore the capital. If we want to explore any other areas of Kathmandu, we may do that today. Our guides can help you with both souvenir shopping or sightseeing. There will be a farewell dinner in the evening to celebrate the successful completion of our journey. Overnight in Kathmandu.

    (30 minute flight to KTM ) (Breakfast) (1335 Meters ) (Hotel)
  • Day 18

    Free day at Kathmandu

    A leisure day in Kathmandu which can be used for an early morning mountain flight to Everest or can be extended into further more tours to Chitwan, Lumbini etc. Further adventure activities like rock climbing, hiking, biking around the Kathmandu valley with bungee jumping, rafting near the valleys can be done on this free day. (This is also spare day in case of cancellation of flights)

    (Breakfast) (1335 Meters ) (Hotel)
  • Day 19

    Departure day

    A representative from Community Trek will check your flight tickets and transfer you to the airport before two hours from your flight with a hope of seeing you again in the future.

    (Breakfast)
  • Note

    Customize your trip

    ALL ITINERARIES CAN BE CUSTOMIZED AT YOUR REQUEST. CHECK OUT “EXTENSION” FOR SOME SUGGESTIONS.

Services

Inclusions:

1. Airport pick up and transfer to hotel

2. 2 star hotel in Kathmandu on twin sharing room with breakfast

3. Welcome and Farewell dinner in Kathmandu at one of the typical Nepalese local restaurant

4. A Day rock climbing course in Kathmandu or guided city tour of Kathmandu valley

5. Required private transport at Kathmandu

6. Kathmandu- Lukla- Kathmandu flight, airport taxes and transfer

7. 13 nights/ 14 Days Mera Peak Climbing,accommodation on Tea House(1 to 2 peoples) & on tented camp(above 3) with full board of meals & boiled drinking water(3 ltrs)

8. Mera Peak Climbing special climbing permit/s

9. Necessary group climbing gears- Main & fixed rope, ice crew, snow bar etc

10. One Advanced Adventures Climbing Leader(English speaking, first aid trained, climbing trained from NMA), the cost of camping and trekkers crew/ insurance/s

11. Advanced Adventure duffle bag & T- shorts

12. Gamow Bag for the security measure- provided on request at the group of 4 or above

13. Medical kit bag

14. All necessary Gov. Taxes and service charges

 

Exclusions:

1. Nepal Visa fees, intl. airfare in/out Nepal

2. Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu except welcome & Farewell dinner & breakfast

3. Personal climbing equipment (Ice Axe, Crampons, Harness, Zoomer, Descender, Carbines & climbing boots etc.- Possible to buy or hire in Kathmandu)

4. Travel and rescue insurance

5. Personal nature expenses- phone calls, laundry, hot shower, bar bills, cold beverages etc.

6. Personal tipping

7. Cost of any extending trips

Equipment List

#Gear List
The following checklist should help you with your packing. As a general rule, you should always try to keep the weight of your equipment to a minimum. The packed weight of your trek bag while trekking should be no more than 15 KG.

 

You must bring the following items:
Hiking boots
Socks
Trekking trousers / pants
Waterproof overtrousers / rainpants
Baselayer shirts
Casual shirt and/or T-shirts
Fleece jacket or warm jumper/sweater
Waterproof jacket
Sunhat
Warm hat
Sunglasses
Thermal gloves
Warm and waterproof over gloves or mittens
Headtorch/Headlamp with spare bulb and batteries
Sun protection (including total bloc for lips, nose etc.)
Water bottles 1 L.
Antibacterial handwash
Small towel
Daypack, 25/30Litres
Trekking poles
Sleeping bag 4 or 5 season * (rated down to – 20ºC)
Warm jacket (down)*

 

Basic First Aid Kit including: A broad spectrum antibiotic, antiseptic cream, throat lozenges, diarrhea treatment (Imodium), altitude (Diamox), painkillers, plasters (band-aids) and blister treatment, insect repellent, and re-hydration salts (Dioralite). Glucose tablets

 

Climbing gear you should bring:
01: Ice Axe w/Leash (General mountaineering tool. Sizing is important: under 5’7″ use a 60cm tool; 5’7″- 6’1″ use a 65cm tool; over 6’1″ use a 70cm tool. (Too short is preferable to too long).)
02: Crampons (With flat rather than “cookie cutter” frame rails)
03: 40 ft 6mm perlon (For Prussiks or bring your glacier rig.)
04: Alpine Climbing Harness (Harness should fit over all clothing; have gear loops, adjustable leg loops and be reasonably comfortable to hang suspended in.)
05: Carabiners (2 Large Pear or D-shaped locking. 2 standard ovals or D’s)
06: Climbing helmet (Must be adjustable to fit, with or without hat or balaclava on)
07: 1 Ascender (Recommended: left or right hand.)
08: Ski or trekking poles (Helpful for balance when carrying a heavy pack or if you have knee problems)
09: Double plastic climbing boots.
10: Gaiters (Please make sure your gaiters fit around the plastic boot without being to tight around the boot.)

 

Note: Walking pole, down jacket, sleeping bag, etc available on hire in Kathmandu.

Responsible

Responsible tourism is something which our company takes very seriously. This is why we recommend you to read the following lines and learn about responsible tourism before your trip.

 

Environment:

1. It is advisable to eat as the locals do: eat the rice, the lentils, the fresh fruit and vegetables.
2. Tourists tend to bring with them plastic water bottles, packets of crisps and chocolate bars for energy, so without thinking, they are adding to the rubbish problem. It’s fine to eat foods like that, but take your rubbish with you back to Kathmandu and throw in the bin there because up in the Himalaya, they bury it in the ground, or they burn it and that’s no good.
3. Respect any animals and wildlife you might encounter. Do not feed any animals unless you are specifically given permission, avoid picking flowers no matter how beautiful they may be, do not touch or move fossils, and importantly, don’t stroke dogs – they can be aggressive towards strangers and stray dogs in Nepal may carry rabies.

 

Culture:

1. Before you buy souvenirs. Beautiful shahtoosh shawls are woven in the Himalayas from the wool of the Tibetan Antelope, or chiru. The chiru is now endangered as a result of hunting for its precious wool – avoid buying anything made from it.

2. Food & Taboos – once you’ve touched something to your lips, it’s considered polluted for everyone else. If you take a sip from your own, or someone else’s water bottle, try not to let it touch your lips and don’t eat from someone else’s plate or offer anyone food you’ve taken a bite of.

3. Right or Left? Mmm… Right! The left hand is reserved for washing after defecating. You can use it to hold a drink or cutlery while you eat, but don’t wipe your mouth, or pass food with it.

4. Right hand & Manners. To show respect, offer money, food or gifts with both hands, or with the right hand while the left touches the wrist.

5. Keep Calm. The Nepalese are a very calm and contemplative people. You may find yourself in social situations that are completely out of your western comfort zone, but it is important to remember that the locals exercise discretion in expressing their feelings, anger and affection towards each other. If you don’t understand something, ask quietly and be patient.

6. Think before you take pictures. It’s easy to get snap-happy when presented with Nepal’s incredible landscape and lifestyle. Remember, this may be your trip of a lifetime, but it’s their reality, so introduce yourself and ask permission. Whenever possible, it is good idea to ask for a postal address and follow through by sending photographs back to local families.

7. A conservative country. Women should have their legs and shoulders covered and men should wear full-length trousers and tops with long sleeves. The forehead is regarded as the most sacred part of the body and it’s impolite to touch an adult Nepali’s head. Do not stretch your legs in public or point your feet at anyone as feet are considered the lowest and dirtiest part of the body.

8. Girls in Kathmandu and Pokhara do wear shorts or short skirts, but this is new to Nepal and you run the risk of being seen as sexually available if you do the same.

9. Spitting is normal in Nepal and you will see men, women, and children spitting on the street. The same goes for littering. Don’t pull a local up for these behaviours, but don’t join in either.

10. Avoid showing affection in public. Although some younger couples hold hands in public, this is relatively new and it is still frowned upon.

11. Ancient and sacred sites: there are a few protocol that are handy to know and easy to follow: don’t climb on ruins, avoid touching any religious object, and when you walk around monuments and temples, do so in a clockwise direction, that is – keep the monument on your right. It is generally not a problem to enter temples, but take your shoes off when you do and don’t take photos while you’re in there

12. When visiting temples, respect both the place and the people that pray there. Do not throw anything into the fire as it considered sacred and, if for some reason – time of day, particular prayer time – you are not permitted to enter, accept this graciously and ask your guide to ask when might be a better time to come back.

13. Some Hindu temples and their innermost sanctums are usually out of bounds for nonbelievers, who pose the threat of ritual pollution. If you are allowed in, be respectful, take your shoes off before entering and don’t take photos unless you’ve asked permission.

14. Though no one will ever ask, a small donation to temple that you’re visiting will be much appreciated. Donations support the operations of the day. Place your donation on the altar, or if you want to make a specific donation look for a donation box.

15. If you’re granted an audience with a lama at a Buddhist temple or monastery, it’s traditional to present him with a kata: a ceremonial white scarf (usually sold nearby).

16. If you are invited into a private home for a meal, you can bring fruit or sweets, but don’t expect thanks – it is considered offensive to make a fuss in these situations. Take your shoes off when entering, unless shown otherwise. When the food is served you may be expected to eat first, so you won’t be able to follow your host’s lead. Take less than you can eat – asking for seconds is the best compliment you can give. The meal is typically served at the end of a gathering and when the food is finished, everyone leaves.

17. Don’t give pens, money, or sweets to the local people you encounter on visits to villages and it can encourage begging and may be seen to establish a non-equal relationship between tourist and local with tourists being seen as simply ‘givers’ giving to ‘the poor’. Instead, buy local handicrafts directly from villagers and show an interest in their skills. Sweets may seem like an ideal gift for children, but access to dentists is extremely limited to rural dwellers and the last thing you want to give them is tooth decay!

18. Hassle by touts is on the rise in Nepal and it’s likely you’ll get accosted at the airport and in Kathmandu and offered drugs, treks and sex. They’re not as aggressive as in India – ignore them and they’re likely to ignore you. If they don’t, ask politely if they’ll leave you alone – do not be rude, as they’ll take it personally.

19. Dealing with beggars is par for the course in Nepal. Adjust to the pathos quickly – few beggars are bona fide and helping those that are will only encourage those that aren’t. Do not give away medicines either; instead donate them to the destitute at Kathmandu’s Bir Hospital, or at the Himalayan Buddhist Meditation Centre in Kathmandu.

20. The litter problem in Nepal is growing and has increased with the wider availability of pre-packaged goods. Keep your waste to a minimum – avoid accepting plastic bags from shops and reuse the ones you have, buy additional food from local markets to avoid packaging, take an empty plastic bag with you on treks, so you can pick up any additional litter you might spot and take particularly harmful waste, such as batteries, back to Kathmandu with you.

21. Marijuana and other ‘recreational’ drugs are widely available in Nepal although totally illegal. If caught in possession, drugs carry huge fines and up to 20 years imprisonment.

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