Everest South Face Expedition, the Tibetan name for Mount Everest is “Chomolungma” which means “Saint Mother”. It has been in common use by Tibetans for centuries (BEFORE 1733 A.D). The height of Everest is 8848m. It was after many years of calculation that it has been officially set and announced by the GREAT TRIGONOMETRIC SURVEY OF INDIA in 1856.
Everest South Face Expedition, in 1865, Everest was given its official English name by Andrew Wough. He was the British surveyor General of India. He recommended this name after his ancestor former chief, Sir George Everest. Andrew was sent to Nepal by Sir George Everest for studying the peak. Only in the early 1960s, the Nepalese government gave Mount Everest the official name “Sagarmatha”. There is 15 recognized route for climbing Mt. Everest.
Every Year in spring and autumn the Mt. Everest Expedition could be scheduled from its South Face which is from Nepal.
In autumn, the expedition usually stars on the last week of August and complete at around end of October. In this period the temperature toward the expedition area is changing from hot to cold. So, the climber has to face the critical situation for acclimatization when approaching the summit.
However, in spring, the temperature to the Everest climbing area is getting from cold to hot which is more convenient for approaching the top after sufficient acclimatization and practice in various camps. Starts the beginnings of April and ends at the beginning of June. The most recommended period for Everest Expedition in spring. However, we are ready to organize this expedition in spring, autumn. Nepali Government authorities also allow the climber to climb Everest in summer and winter too.
♂ SOUTHEAST RIDGE SUMMIT DESCRIPTION (NEPAL SIDE EXPEDITION)
This is the Nepal side route of ascent and was the first recognized route to the top. It was the same route used by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa in 1953. First of all, climbers fly from Kathamandu to Luka then walk for 8-9 days to reach Base Camp at 5,334 m. During the trek, climbers need to allow plenty of time for acclimatization to prevent altitude sickness. Climbers spent some more days for acclimatization in base camp. During that time, Sherpa and climbers set up ropes and ladder in Khumbu icefall. Khumbu icefall is the most dangerous section of the route because of crevasses and changing blocks of ice. Many climbers and Sherpas have been killed in this section. Little above the icefall is Camp I at 5,943m. From Camp I, climbers make their way up to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) which is established at 6,400 m. The Western part is a flat glacier valley and number of crevasses are present in the centre which prevents direct access to the upper part of Everest. Climbers need to pass by the base of Mount Nuptse. Near the base of Nuptse, the Western Cwm is present there which is also called the “Valley of Silence”. The topography of the area generally cuts off wind from the climbing route. The high altitude and a clear windless day can make the Western Cwm unbearably hot for climbers. From ABC, climbers’ ascents the Lhotse Face on a fixed rope up to Camp III, located on a small edge at 7162m. From there, it is another 800 meters to camp IV at 8000m. From Camp III to Camp IV, climbers now faces two challenges.
♂ Expedition Base camp
We set up a permanent Expedition base camp for as long as the Everest expedition continues. Each of the members has a personal tent with an Exped down-filled mattress for comport. We provide a spacious dining hall with chairs and tables – carpeted, heated and lit by solar electricity make your stay at base camp as luxurious as possible with internet facilities at hand. We have a shower tent and toilet tent, all kept in hygienic order. All members of the climbing staff have their own tent along with kitchen and store tents. We have an excellent expedition cook at base camp to cater to the great meals and expedition team manager to deal with all the required logistics necessary for a successful expedition.
♂ Training and Climbing Strategy
We spend several nights at base camp for proper acclimatization before we head to the higher camps. Upon arrival at base camp, we organize refreshment climbing training covering climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying, use of oxygen, mask and regulator etc. We will also organize a practical climb of a 6000-meter peak to test your climbing skills before we head out on our attempt to climb Everest.
We climb the Khumbu icefall several times on our acclimatization hike to Camp 2 and Camp 3. Climbing Sherpas complete their duty of preparation by ensuring that all the high camps are well stocked with tents, food and oxygen for the summit push. We return to base camp for rest and recuperation before we make the summit attempt. After getting confirmation of a favourable weather forecast, we head up with our summit plan to ABC and then CAMP 1, CAMP 2, CAMP 3, Camp 4 and then the SUMMIT. We provide expedition tents on all the higher camps. There will be a 1:1 one Climber and one climbing Sherpa ratio to ensure that every climber has complete support to enable them to scale the summit and return back to base camp safely.
♂ Climbing Gears, Expedition Food and Load Ferry
Community Trek provides all the expedition group climbing gear including all high altitude tents, solar lights, dining tent with chairs and tables, oxygen, regulators, masks, climbing ropes etc in a bid to Everest expedition in Nepal. We provide sufficient, plentiful and tasty hygienically prepared food at both base and advanced base camps during your Everest expedition. Ample high altitude foods are provided at higher camps. All the expedition load ferries from base camp to all the higher camps are included in the cost which most of the other expedition operators charge as extras.
♂ Expeditions safety, communication and weather
All our Everest Expedition climbing Sherpa have extensive knowledge of wilderness medical training and they are competent to deal with the normal medical issues. We have Oxygen and comprehensive medical kits along with a Gamow bag available as a safety back up.
We also motivate all the climbers to carry personal micro medical kits with them. We use the most recent, tested TOP OUT mask and oxygen regulator and 4-litre Poisk oxygen bottles. Satellite phones and two-way radios will always be there for communication. Good weather is essential on all Everest expeditions and to ensure the safety of all our climbers and supporting crew. We use a professional and reliable weather forecast service for the whole expedition period with regular info and updates until the ultimate summit push and safe return to base camp.
03 April/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel Yak and Yeti or similar hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (1350M/4430ft)
04-05April/Day2-3: Preparation, Briefings at Departments of tourism, Last minute shopping
06 April/Day 04: Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; Trek to Phakding (2650m/8694ft, 04 hrs); lodge accommodation
07 April/Day 05: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar through colourful Khumbu villages (3440m/11286ft, 06hrs); Lodge accommodation
08 April/Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization; you will be a hike to famous Everest View Hotel (3800m/12487ft, 3hrs) to catch a glimpse of Everest; explore Hilary and Sherpa museum at Namche in the evening with a slide show program.
09 April/Day 07: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850m/12631ft, 05-06 hrs); visit significant Buddhist monastery; lodge accommodation
10 April/Day 08: Trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche (4350m/14271ft, 4hrs) about 4-5hrs; catch glimpses of Ama Dablam and Lhotse; lodge accommodation
11 April/Day 09: Acclimatization in Dingboche(4350M/14271ft) hiking up to chhukung-ri.
12 April/Day 10: Trek from Dingboche to Lobuche (5018m/16463ft, 4-5hrs); lodge accommodation
13 April/Day 11: Trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5170m/16962ft, 3hrs); lodge accommodation
14 April/Day 12: Morning acclimatize to Kalapathar (5554M) After breakfast Trek from Gorakshep to Everest Base camp (5200m/17060, 2hrs)
15-30 May/Day13-58: Climbing period Summit Everest (8,848m/ 29029ft)
31 May/Day 59: Preparation for return, trek from Everest base camp to Dingboche(4350m/14271ft, 4hrs) , lodge accommodation
01 June/Day 60: Trek from Dingboche to Tengboche (3860m/12631ft, 04 hours) lodge accommodation
02 June/Day 61:Trek from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11286ft, 04hrs) lodge accommodation.
03 June/Day 62: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla(2840m/9317ft,7hrs) lodge accommodation
04 June/Day 63:Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu (1350M/4430ft); 35minutes, transfer to hotel
05 June/Day 64: Leisure day & shopping in Kathmandu; Fair well-Celebration dinner with culture program in the Evening.
06 June/Day 65: Transfer to the airport for final departure
For our full board climbers we set up an intermediate facility at camp 2 (6,400m); this will include personal tents for full board clients, kitchen and dining tents and the toilet facility. We provide meals while our clients are in camp 2. We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 3 and camp 4 including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day.; We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Camp 2, 3, and 4 and the climbing route.
♂ Full Board Service Cost Includes:
» Arrival and departure transfer services to and from both Domestic and International flight as per itinerary.
» Assistance at the International airport by Satori adventures while arriving and departing in Kathmandu.
» 4 Nights Yak and Yeti or similar hotels accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
» Experienced and government licensed high altitude trekking guide during the trekking and climbing period.
» Schedule Flight Tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu sector to all climbing member, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff.
» All trekking and mountaineering equipment like; kitchen tent, stores tent, dining tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs, and cooking utensils for advance Base Camp and camp two.
» Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bar etc)
» Services of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp and cook at Camp 2
» 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea/ coffee) in available tea house/hotel/lodge during the trekking
» 3 fresh meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners) will be serve at base camp, and camp two.
» All food and fuel for Base Camp and higher camps during expedition for both members and crews.
» Per person 60kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak to climbing the Mt. Everest.
» Daily Weather Report Services from Seattle based
» Trekking Permit (Everest National Park entry fee)
» TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
» Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Everest (8848M).
» Nepalese Government Royalty and fees;
» One Experienced, Trained, Government Licensed, and 03 Times Everest Summiteers Climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client.
» All wages, equipment, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs in trekking and expedition.
» Medical consultation services at the base camp with the HRA clinic at the base camp.
» Equipment allowances and wages for Climbing Sherpa’s, cooks, kitchen boys.
» Equipment allowances and wages for Government Liaison Officer.
» First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
» Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 3 per minute call.
» Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
» Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period.
» Heater will be provided at base camp for heating the dining room.
» Emergency Oxygen, mask and regulator provided on requirement of guest with appropriate charge
» Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
» Solar panel for light and battery charger.
» All tents for camp 1, 2, 3 and 4 for members and staff.
» Icefall charges by Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee.
» Gamow Bags (Portable Altitude Chamber).
» 7 Bottles (28L) of Poisk Oxygen will be provided with each member (we use Poisk brands of the Oxygen)
» Latest model of Summit or Top out system mask and regulators
» Sherpa’s tents, food for climbing, and insurance for staff
» Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing Sherpa guide, cook and staff.
» Free assistance service for Cargo clearance and Duties.
» Fresh cooked food and kitchen will be provided at camp two.
» Trekking and Climbing map of the Mount Everest.
» EPI Cooking gas, the stove will be provided in camp one, three and south col for cooking food, boiling water.
» Generator will be providing for back- up of lighting power and charging electronic tools.
» Transportation of food supply to Base Camp from Kathmandu (Cargo to Lukla and then by porter/Yaks to base camp)
» Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
» Complete pre-departure information
» Flight ticket reconfirmation
» visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
» Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
» Satori T-shirt/Pashmina, broacher.
♂ Full board service Cost Exclude:
» Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
» Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during the trekking.
» Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips.
» Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
» Extra transportation then display in itinerary program.
» Any additional staff other than specified.
» Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
» Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
» Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
» Wallie-talkies & Filming permit (if the special camera or walkies-talkies).
» Personal climbing gears;
» Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phone And Internet expenses
» Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees or Trekking Gears
» Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
» Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides as per Mountaineering Association rules. Minimum US$ 1500.00 per climbing Sherpa guide.
» Tips and gifts for base camp and high altitude trekking and climbing staff are mandatory.
» Airfare of international flights.
» Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance on arrival in Kathmandu)
» Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary.
» Any other item not included in “COST INCLUDES” section.
All airport/hotel/airport transfers
6 nights hotel (4/5 star) in Kathmandu, bb plan
Mt. Everest Expedition (Khumbu Ice Fall route) permit, Sagarmatha National park and necessary permit fee.
Scheduled flight : Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu
50 Kg cargo from Kathmandu/lukla and 35 kg cargo Lukla/Kathmandu per climber
Necessary porters and mules for carrying equipment & loads
Twin sharing accommodation in lodge/teahouse while trekking
3 times meals per day, teas & coffees in trekking & base camp days
Common climbing equipments like necessary rope, ice bars, ice screws etc
1 tent per climber of North face or similar for Base Camp
Dining, Kitchen, Store tent, mattress and all camping facilities needed in BC
Experienced and professional staff at BC : Base camp manager, cook, kitchen boy
Government liaisons officer
Equipment allowance, wages, life, medical & life, medical & rescue insurance for all Nepali members.
Emergency oxygen, mask & regulator at ABC (use and pay)
Immediate Rescue co-ordination (covered by your travel insurance)
Generator or solar panel for charging & lighting in Base camp
Satellite phone on pay call basis (1min = $ 5)
Walkie – talkie set
International flight ticket, taxes and visas
Lunch & dinner, hotel after 6 nights in Kathmandu
Personal trekking & climbing equipment
Excess personal climber baggage transport Ktm-lua-BC $ 9 per kg one way.
All expenses of personal nature like bar bills, laundry, telephone etc.
Insurance for travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost baggage.
Applicable permit fee & custom fee for SAT phone, filming camera, communications equipment (if brought)
Climbing Bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpa (if you use Sherpa), Tips for Base Camp Staff
All not mentioned in cost include part
♂ Essential Personal Climbing Gear:
» Alpine Climbing Harness: Alpine Climbing Harness should be light and simple in design, easy to put on and take off with gloves on, with positively foolproof locking features.
» Crampons: Crampons must fit boots perfectly; steel crampons with anti-balling and ability to toe point positively and safely into ice.
» Ice axe: Ice axe should be versatile light general-purpose ice climbing axe not too aggressive.
» Ascender: Ascender or Jamar, a mechanical device used for ascending on a rope; must be suitable to be used with gloves or mittens.
» Multi-LED Head Lamp: Multi-LED Head Lamp and spare batteries are essential items, we do not recommend single bulb lights due to its low reliability and a single point of failure.
» Karabiners: Minimum 2 locking carabineers, 1 large and 1 small and 4 regular.
» Rappel device: Figure 8, ACT or similar; be familiar with Munter Hitch as it may safe your life if you loose your Rappel device and you will at some stage
» Ski poles: Very handy for the approach; adjustable types are the best and are recommended a type
» Slings: One 3m (10ft) and three 2m (6ft).
» Masks, hoses, and regulators: Good quality for your safety.
» Altimeter :
» Climbing helmet: a Climbing helmet is essential safety gear for crossing areas under rocks and ice cliffs; lightweight is an essential feature
♂ For undergarments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilises the best quality material in the world. No other company can at this stage match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breath-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm. Due to its natural nano-tube construction it has antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is climbing and trekking.
♂ Upper Body:
» One T-shirt Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200.
» Two long Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 shirts.
» One polar fleece pullovers, medium weight.
» One polar fleece jacket.
» One Gore-Tex waterproof and breathable jacket with a large hood to accommodate a climbing helmet.
» Lightweight down jacket for chilly days in base camp or warm layer when stopping for short breaks.
» One very warm goose-down (duvet) jacket with hood or a down/duvet suit if you prefer, for high altitude use.
» Note: Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.
» One pair of lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but not inside your mitts
» One pair mittens, consists of 1 Goretex over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner
» Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears
» Scarf or neck sleeve
» Face mask
» Ball cap or brimmed sun cap
» Glacier Sunglass with side shields
» One pair ski goggles (optional with light and dark lens)
» Bandana or head scarf, useful for dusty conditions
♂ Lower Body:
» Icebreaker Merino 150 underwear briefs
» One pair of walking shorts
» One pair of walking trousers for trekking and around camp
» Two pair Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 thermal bottoms
» One pair Icebreaker Merino 200 weight thermal bottoms
» One pair of polar fleece trousers
» One pair of Gore-Tex trousers or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips
» One pair of Goose-down (duvet) trousers or bibs. You may prefer a down (duvet)
♂ Note: Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.
» One pair One-Sport Millet Everest Overboots or equivalent (with Aveolite liners; good quality plastic shells with inner boots; avoid tight fit with heavy socks.)
» One pair sturdy leather or synthetic (Gortex) hiking boots with good ankle support for the walk to advanced base camp
» One pair cross-trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp
» One pair down booties (optional)
» Two pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
» Two Pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool
» Vapour barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags
» Two pair lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool
» Light Icebreaker Merino wool or cotton socks for in town.
♂ Travel and Sleeping Gear
♂ Rucksacks and Travel Bags:
» One medium rucksack (50-70 litters / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used for aeroplane carry).
» Two large (120 L / 7500 cubic inches) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment. Must be durable for use on pack animals.
» Small padlocks for duffel kit bags.
♂ Sleeping Gear:
» For high altitude, one down (duvet) sleeping bag (rated to –35 C (-30 F). In the high camp, you can sleep in your down (duvet) clothing inside your sleeping bag.
» For base camp, one additional sleeping bag (good to -20 C (-5 F).
» At least 3 closed cell foam mats for use in base camp and high altitude, which can be purchased in Kathmandu inexpensively; we do not recommend inflatable mats due to the high probability of accidental puncture.
♂ Note: Your sleeping bags should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags
♂ Personal Hygiene:
» Personal hygiene supplies;
» Two tubes lip sun cream, 1 large tube skin sun cream (min. factor 30);
» Anti-mosquito cream;
» One toothpaste/brush set;
» One bar soap or hand sanitizer gel/1 small synthetic towel;
» Hand wipes.
♂ Medical Supplies:
Note: Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc. The leaders will have extensive first-aid kits,
» Personal prescription medications. Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb.
» One skin blister repair kit.
» medications are inexpensive and readily available in Kathmandu with no doctor’s prescription.
» One small bottle of anti-diarrhoea pills (Imodium).
» One small bottle of anti-headache pills.
» One small bottle of cough and/or cold medicine.
» One-course antibiotics for stomach infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor’s prescription.
» One-course antibiotics for a chest infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor’s prescription.
» One small bottle anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide. For more about this medication, please contact us.
» Do not bring sleeping pills. They are a respiratory depressant non-compatible with high altitude physiology.
» One small bottle of water purification tablets or water filter.
» Extra prescription glasses/contact lens. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency.
♂ Personal Food
Our skilful cooks will prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in base camp, as well as in camp 2 on the mountain. This meals will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our Sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
We ask only members to bring 5 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. On summit day you will be at high elevation and you will be affected by the altitude with very limited appetite and for a period so it is important to have flavours you most likely will consume.
We cannot cater to specific personal and uncommon foods and flavours. If you have any unusual, non-standard or specific personal, cultural or religious dietary requirements, which can only be satisfied with imported product, we ask you to bring your own imported daily snack and energy foods.
We do not provide “snack” food such as chocolate or “energy-bars”. We ask that you bring or buy your own “snack” or daily cold energy food in Kathmandu or in the home country. From our experience 3-6 kilos/6-12 pounds is a sufficient amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported brands of power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, “freeze-dried meals”, imported cheese and sausage may not be available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows sufficient time for shopping.
♂ Miscellaneous Practical Items:
» 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit;
» 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box matches;
» 1 compass or GPS;
» 1 battery powered alarm clock/watch;
» 1 digital camera with extra cards and extra batteries;
» Nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are also useful;
» 3 Water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle)
» 1 plastic cup and spoon;
» 1 small folding knife;
» Binoculars (optional);
» 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks;
» Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary;
» Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance;
» dollars, pounds or euros cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport, Tibet visa, for paying for restaurants and hotels, for gratuities, snacks, and to purchase your own drinks and gifts;
» Credit cards, Bank/ATM/Cash machine cards for use for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards), traveller’s checks, etc.
» 1 bathing suit/swimming costume (you never know);
» Base camp entertainment. It is good to bring additional items which you have found to be useful in previous expeditions. For example paperback books, playing cards, iPod mp3 player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical instruments, earplugs, lots of batteries, etc.;
» travel clothes for base camp and in town;
» Please be sure and bring your patience and try to keep an open, relaxed, positive and friendly attitude as travelling in this part of the world may be very different than what you are used to, but things always seem to fall into place at the last moment.
♂ Note: This is not an exhaustive list. Please submit other equipment concerns and suggestions.
On Everest, although some climbers wish to try to summit it without supplemental oxygen, most the members would prefer to have oxygen available. We only allow members to climb Everest with the supplemental oxygen available. How much oxygen one requires is an individual decision; some people want 1 bottle, others want 12; our only requirement is that every expedition team member must have at least one oxygen bottle available for personal use, which will constitute at the minimum an emergency supply for climber to get down to at least camp 4. Our experience indicates five oxygen bottles is usually sufficient for the average climber. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 40% buy-back policy on unused oxygen bottles, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition.
♂ Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the groups sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.
♂ Fitness requirements
If you want to climb Everest, you’re going to have to be in extremely good physical shape. Basic fitness training should start well in advance, at a minimum of 12 months with the main emphasis on cardiovascular training, assuming you are an amateur athlete and you are fit for strenuous athletic exercises. The main reason for your cardiovascular training is to increase your heart-lung oxygen capacity, so you can deliver a sufficient amount of oxygen to your muscles and brain tissue in extremely low partial oxygen pressure. Acclimatization to high altitude is both a function of cardiovascular capacity as well as your personal physiology adaptation capacity, which you will only find out when you above 8000m. A small percentage of people no matter how fit they are at sea level will not be able to adapt to high altitude, generally however the fitter you are the better your body will be able to cope with the altitude.
♂ Altitude Hazards and Complications
The primary concern of mountaineers as altitude increases is the partial oxygen pressure decrease. There is a fine balance of pressure between your internal oxygen pressure in your lungs and the outside world, which allows your lungs to absorb the oxygen and deliver it to your bloodstream, it is called partial oxygen pressure. With the altitude, the outside pressure drops, while the internal pressure remains constant and at about 9000m you will not be able to absorb any oxygen at all with the predictable outcome despite the amount of oxygen in the air is the same. Our system has evolved at the sea level, where it functions perfectly and it doesn’t at high elevation. The human body has however phenomenal ability to adapt given appropriate conditioning and time, it is called acclimatization.
Low levels of oxygen in the blood can cause the number of conditions such as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), which is easily treatable and reversible condition but it can lead to more serious conditions such as High Altitude Cerebral Edeme (HACE) and High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Low level of blood oxygen can lead to the body thermal inefficiencies causing frostbites and hypothermia.
♂ Others condition caused by the effects of high altitude is thrombosis or embolism.
At high elevation due to lower UV absorption by the atmosphere and reflections from the snow, there is a high risk of sunburn.
The other hazards include broken bones due to falls, avalanche, icefall or rockfall.
Because of bad weather we could face problems with domestic flights to/from Lukla (Delayed or even canceled). It is very rare, but it could happen even in best trekking season. Thus, we always recommend you to add supplement night/s in Kathmandu after your trek if that is possible for you (just in case). If everything runs smoothly, you can enjoy other activities like sightseeing, white water rafting, wildlife activities, shopping, during the extra days.
1. Who can climb an 8000m mountain & who can obtain a climbing permit?
There is only one restriction for obtaining permits for 8000m peaks, the government of Nepal does not allow climbing permits to be issued to a climber who is below the age of 16. Beyond that restriction, any climber with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt an 8,000-meter mountain in the Himalaya. However, our policy for accepting clients on these peaks require that the client has previous experience on 6,000 to 7,000-meter peaks, as well as general skills and knowledge with ice/rock climbing, experience and knowledge of how to ascend/descend on fixed lines and the proper use of ice axes and crampons. Attempting these peaks also requires a very high level of physical fitness and good health. Although we do not have any specific restrictions in place about our client’s physical fitness level, it is in your best interest to take the matter of your physical fitness very seriously. This puts your group members, Sherpa and yourself in a safer situation.
2. Why should I visit Nepal for an 8000M expedition?
For those seeking the experience of climbing an 8000m peak, Nepal should be at the top of your list of countries to visit. With the rich variety of flora and fauna, the everlasting smiles of the rural Nepalese, the hospitality of the village communities, the favourable climatic and geographical conditions, the cultural and linguistic diversity and the rich cultural spirit which represents a unique blend of Buddhism and Hinduism Nepal is the adventure capital of the world. With 1400 trekking peaks above 6000m and 8 of the 14 8000m peaks in the world it is fair to say that your mountaineering ambitions can be taken to a new level here in Nepal. Will never start and complete without having a Himalayan peak experience.
3. How to Choosing an experience Provider, Why climb with Community Trek?
It is important for each climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suites their needs, but provides the best safely and secure mountaineering experience possible. There are more than 1,700 trekking companies in Nepal who offer 8,000-meter expeditions including Everest, but only about 30 companies who operate 8,000-meter peaks on a regular basis. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently offer, run and succeed at these types of expeditions year after year.
It is very important that the climbers who choose Community Trek for this trip of a lifetime experience have expectations that are compatible with the program we offer and the style of expedition Community Trek runs. We do not want to simply “fill our expedition”, but instead we want to comprise a team of companionable people who are focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Mt Everest. We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to further assist each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer the best environment and opportunity for you to be successful in the world’s highest mountain.
4. Is this adventure suitable for me?
Climbing an 8,000-meter peak is a serious physiological and physical undertaking. The steep snow climbing and ice-climbing that can be required entices craftsman to test, hone and develop their skills. If you are considering climbing an 8000m peak there are several questions that you need to ask yourself and be truthful about your findings. Am I physically fit enough? Am i technically capable of handling the expected terrain? Am I mentally capable of the hardship associated with high altitude expeditions? Community Trek recommends that if you’re considering to climb Mt. Everest that you have a high level of physical endurance and previous experience on 6000m or 7000m peaks. We would also like to see that you have climbed an 8000m peak prior to attempting Mt. Everest. For this, we recommend Cho Oyu, Shishapangma and Manaslu. The Himalaya demands truth, be truthful to yourself, your climbing partners and the agency your working with because at some point your life will be held by someone else’s awareness and skill.
5. What is an 8000m mountaineering expedition?
An 8000-meter expedition refers to an expedition to one of the 14 tallest peaks in the world, which are all above 8,000 meters in altitude. Ten of these mountains are located in the Himalaya Range of Nepal. Community Trek operates 8,000-meter expeditions in both the spring and autumn climbing seasons to all of these 8 peaks in Nepal. Climbing periods for these 8000-meter mountains range in duration from 40 to 65 days, this time includes your arrival and departure from Kathmandu. These 8000-meter mountains range in height from 8,091meters to 8,848 meters. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from the Department of Tourism in Nepal, The Tibet Mountaineering Association in Tibet and Ministry of Tourism in Pakistan.
6. Who is the team leader, my personal climbing Sherpa guide and what is the experience?
Our climbing Sherpa guides are experienced and highly qualified. Most were born in high altitude regions and have spent much of their lives above 4,000 meters. We provide extensive training to our guides in technical climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Wilderness First Aid. These guides are all certified mountain guides via the Nepal Mountaineering Association and generally have three former summits of the 8,000 meter peak that they are guiding. Our high altitude Sherpa climbing guides have many years of experience and are qualified through training with TAAN and NATHAM. They are highly skilled in all aspects of mountaineering in Nepal and hold a Nepal Government License, Mountaineering Association Accreditation and Summit Certificates for Nepal Himalayan peaks. All of these government licenses are displayed in our office.
7. What is Community Trek’s physical fitness criteria to climb an 8000m peak?
To climb an 8000m peak your physical fitness is very important, excellent physical fitness is required. Not only for the opportunity to succeed but for your overall safety and enjoyment Our guides like to tell clients, “Be in the best shape of your life”.
8. Is there any age limit for 8000m expedition?
Persons below 16 years of age are restricted from climbing 8,000 meter peaks in the Himalaya of Nepal. Tibet does not allow any persons under the age of 18 years old to climb an 8,000 meter peak. This was a recent change in Nepal but the Tibet mountaineering association had limited access due to age for 75 years in the Everest north region.
9. What are the details about food and meals?
On popular trekking trails, we utilize lodges/guesthouses (aka teahouses) the meals will be provided by these lodges. Menu meals are often available including soups, noodles, rice, and dishes. On certain 8,000 meter trekking routes, lodges and guest houses may be limited, or not available. In these instances, accommodations will be via tents and the meals will be provided by our staff. In these instances, meals will be prepared on the route with canister stoves or natural fires. While in base camp our expedition cooks will prepare meals. Above base camp, the meals will be provided by our climbing Sherpa. Above base camp, we always supply high altitude food that meets our client’s requirements.
10. Is there any communication system while we are trekking and climbing?
Communication will vary greatly depending on the location. Most trekking routes have local VHF phones and increasingly more places get mobile coverage from a variety of carriers. We recommend upon arriving picking up a CDMA prepaid card and insert that into your mobile device. In remote areas, communication is generally not available, or on a very limited basis. Some other and more costly options include the use of Satellite phone. We like to use Delorme. We will always supply a phone that is available upon the client’s request during trekking and mountaineering expeditions.
11. Who will lead me approach to base camp and during the climbing period?
A licensed, trained and experienced climbing Sherpa Guide will lead all expeditions on 8,000 meter peaks above base camp. On the approach to base camp, our teams may be lead by a licensed Sirdar or professional mountaineering/trekking guide.
12. Will, someone picks me up from the airport?
Yes. A Community Trek representative will be waiting for you at the airport with your placard. Clients will need to collect their luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. The Kathmandu International terminal is very small and once you exit the airport terminal, you should see our representative holding a placard with your name. We will then transfer you to the hotel. We monitor all client flights, so if your flight is delayed, we will adjust your pick-up time and be waiting for you as per the schedule.
13. Do I require travel insurance?
Yes. All trekkers and climbers are required to purchase adequate travel insurance, which includes a helicopter emergency evacuation plan. Insurance is not expensive compared to the cost of an evacuation during an expedition. Without having travel insurance during your trek or climb you will be financially responsible for all the costs of your evacuation and treatment. These bills can be tens of thousands of dollars.
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