EVEREST SOUTH FACE EXPEDITION
The Tibetan name for Mount Everest is “Chomolangma” which means “Saint Mother”. It has been in common use by Tibetans for centuries (BEFORE 1733 A.D). The height of Everest is 8848m. It was after many years of calculation that it has been officially set and announced by the GREAT TRIGONOMETRIC SURVEY OF INDIA in 1856.
This peak was previously known as Peak XV to the western world. Then In 1865, Everest was given its official English name by Andrew Wough. He was the British surveyor General of India. He recommended this name after his ancestor former chief, Sir George Everest. Andrew was send to Nepal by Sir George Everest for studying the peak. Only in the early 1960s, the Nepalese government gave Mount Everest the official name “Sagarmatha”. There are 15 recognized route for climbing Mt. Everest.
Every Year in spring and autumn the Mt. Everest Expedition could be scheduled from its South Face which is from Nepal.
In autumn, the expedition usually stars on the last week of August and complete at around end of October. In this period the temperature toward the expedition area is changing from hot to cold. So, the climber has to face the critical situation for acclimatization when approaching the summit.
However in spring, the temperature to the Everest climbing area is getting from cold to hot which is more convenient for approaching the top after sufficient acclimatization and practice in various camps. Starts beginnings of April and ends in the beginning of June. The mostly recommended period for Everest Expedition in spring. However, we are ready to organize this expedition in spring, autumn. Nepali Government authorities also allows climber to climb Everest in summer and winter too.
SOUTHEAST RIDGE SUMMIT DESCRIPTION (NEPAL SIDE EXPEDITION)
This is the Nepal side route of ascent and was the first recognized route to the top. It was the same route used by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa in 1953. First of all, climbers fly from Kathamandu to Luka then walk for 8-9 days to reach Base Camp at 5,334 m. During the trek, climbers need to allow plenty of time for acclimatization to prevent altitude sickness. Climbers spent some more days for acclimatization in base camp. During that time, Sherpa and climbers set up ropes and ladder in Khumbu icefall. Khumbu icefall is the most dangerous section of the route because of crevasses and changing blocks of ice. Many climbers and Sherpas have been killed in this section. Little above the icefall is Camp I at 5,943m. From Camp I, climbers make their way up to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) which is established at 6,400 m. The Western part is a flat glacier valley and number of crevasses are present in the center which prevent direct access to the upper part of Everest. Climbers need to pass by the base of Mount Nuptse. Near the base of Nuptse, the Western Cwm is present there which is also called the “Valley of Silence”. The topography of the area generally cuts off wind from the climbing route. The high altitude and a clear windless day can make the Western Cwm unbearably hot for climbers. From ABC, climbers’ ascents the Lhotse Face on fixed rope up to Camp III, located on a small edge at 7162m. From there, it is another 800 meters to camp IV at 8000m. From Camp III to Camp IV, climbers now faces two challenges.
1. The Geneva Spur: It is the blocks of rock named by Swiss Expedition Team in 1952. Fixed ropes helps climbers to pass by this section.
2. The Yellow Band: It is a section of inter layered marble, phyllite and semi schist requires about 100mtrs of rope to cross it. After Camp IV, climbers then enter the death zone. Climbers generally have maximum 2-3 days that they can bear at this height. Clear weather and low winds are factors in deciding to make a summit attempt. If weather does not favor, climbers are forced to return back.
From Camp IV, climbers can begin their summit push around midnight. They have only 10 to 12 hours for making the rest of the heights. Climbers first reach “THE BALCONY” at 8,400m, it is a small platform where they can rest and watch at peaks in the early light of dawn. While walking up the ridge, climbers faces series of striking rock steps. Climbers then follow the knife-edge southeast ridge which is known as “CORNICE TRAVERSE”. This is the most exposed section of the climb. If miss-step then the climbers falls about 2,400m down. At the end of CORNICE TRAVERSE at 8760 m, there is a 12m rock wall called “HILLARY STEP”. After crossing the “HILLARY STEP”, it is an easy climb to the “top of the world”. After the summit, Climbers have to descent to Camp IV before darkness because afternoon weather becomes serious problem on the top and also supplement oxygen may run out. So, climber spend less than a half-hour on the “top of the world”.
Community Trek is delighted to offer the world-class service in the Everest Base Camp (EBC) and other higher camps of Mt. Everest from its South face in Nepal. Our service covers since arrivals in Kathmandu, Hotel accommodations, fly to Lukla in Khumbu region, treks to Base camp via Namche tea house full board services during the trek before arriving to base camp.
Expedition Base camp
We set up a permanent Expedition base camp for as long as the Everest expedition continues. Each of the members has a personal tent with Exped down filled mattress for comport. We provide a spacious dining hall with chairs and tables – carpeted, heated and lit by solar electricity make your stay at base camp as luxurious as possible with internet facilities at hand. We have a shower tent and toilet tent, all kept in hygienic order. All members of the climbing staff have their own tent along with kitchen and store tents. We have an excellent expedition cook at base camp to cater the great meals and expedition team manager to deal with all the required logistics necessary for a successful expedition.
Training and Climbing Strategy
We spend several nights at base camp for proper acclimatization before we head to the higher camps. Upon arrival at base camp, we organize refreshment climbing training covering climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying, use of oxygen, mask and regulator etc. We will also organize a practical climb of a 6000 meter peak to test your climbing skills before we head out on our attempt to climb Everest.
We climb the Khumbu ice fall several times on our acclimatization hike to Camp 2 and Camp 3. Climbing Sherpas complete their duty of preparation by ensuring that all the high camps are well stocked with tents, food and oxygen for the summit push. We return to base camp for rest and recuperation before we make the summit attempt. After getting confirmation of a favorable weather forecast, we head up with our summit plan to ABC and then CAMP 1, CAMP 2, CAMP 3, Camp 4 and then the SUMMIT. We provide expedition tents on all the higher camps. There will be 1:1 one Climber and one climbing Sherpa ratio to ensure that every climber has complete support to enable them to scale the summit and return back to base camp safely.
Climbing Gears, Expedition Food and Load Ferry
Community Trek provides all the expedition group climbing gear including all high altitude tents, solar lights, dining tent with chairs and tables, oxygen, regulators, masks, climbing ropes etc in a bid to Everest expedition in Nepal. We provide sufficient, plentiful and tasty hygienically prepared food at both base and advanced base camps during your Everest expedition. Ample high altitude foods are provided at higher camps. All the expedition load ferries from base camp to all the higher camps are included in the cost which most of the other expedition operators charge as extras.
Expeditions safety, communication and weather
All our Everest Expedition climbing Sherpa have extensive knowledge of wilderness medical training and they are competent to deal with the normal medical issues. We have Oxygen and comprehensive medical kits along with a Gamow bag available as a safety back up.
We also motivate all the climbers to carry personal micro medical kits with them. We use most recent, tested TOP OUT mask and oxygen regulator and 4 litre Poisk oxygen bottles. Satellite phones and two-way radios will always be there for communication. Good weather is essential on all Everest expeditions and to ensure the safety of all our climbers and supporting crew. We use a professional and reliable weather forecast service for the whole expedition period with regular info and updates until the ultimate summit push and safe return to base camp.
We welcome and receive you in Tribhuwan International Airport and transfer you to your Hotel for overnight stay. At evening you’ll join us for a dinner program in typical Nepali Restaurant.
This day we are busy for briefing about expedition, documentation, last minute shopping and preparation for departure to the trekking and climbing route. We’ll also introduce you to our Nepali crew coming with you for expedition.
Today you fly to Lukla from Kathmandu at early morning, take breakfast in Lukla and Trek to Phakding where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.
Today you trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar through colorful Khumbu village.
Today is the rest day. Also you may hike to famous Everest View Hotel to catch a glimpse of Mt. Everest and back to Namche visit Hilary and Sherpa museum.
Today you trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche visit significant Buddhist monastery in this village.
Today you trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche from where you’ll be able to catch glimpses of Lhotse and Ama Dablam.
(Overnight at Teahouse) (BLD)
Today you trek from Dingboche to Lobuche.
Today is the day for rest and acclimatization at Lobuche for further trekking.
Today you trek from Lobuche to reach Gorakshep.
Today you trek from Gorakshep to Everest Base camp. You will have preparation for tented camping in Base camp for further expedition.
(Overnight at Camping) (BLD)
These days are the major climbing days for you to ascend the summit of most awaited Mt. Everest. After some day’s acclimatization and exercise you will be taken to the 2nd camp, closer to the summit of (8,848m) where you will be provided food for high altitude. We are allowed to trek from camp 1 to camp 2 or vice versa for more practice and acclimatization. Finally we wish that weather will allow the success of reaching the summit.
(Overnight at Camping) (BLD)
After a successful summit of Mt. Everest (hopefully), you will be taken back to Dingboche via Lobuche from Everest Base Camp.
You are descending toward Tengboche by trek from Dingboche on this day.
From Tengboche you are descending down to Namche bazaar.
Today is your last day for Trek and expedition campaign from Namche Bazaar to Lukla.
Today you fly from Lukla to Kathmandu same about 35 minutes and we transfer to your booked Hotel.
Today you’ll have free day in Kathmandu. You can have sightseeing in the cultural heritage inside Kathmandu, buy souveniers and thankas to take back home or anything as the day is free and easy comparing to the previous ones. At evening we’ll host farewell-Celebration dinner with local typical cultural experience in Restaurant adjoining our crew that were in the expedition time with you.
(Overnight at Hotel)(BD)
We transfer you to the airport for final departure 3 hours before flight schedule.
ALL ITINERARIES CAN BE CUSTOMIZED AT YOUR REQUEST. CHECK OUT “EXTENSION” FOR SOME SUGGESTIONS.
All airport/hotel/airport transfers
6 nights hotel (4/5 star) in Kathmandu, bb plan
Mt. Everest Expedition (Khumbu Ice Fall route) permit, Sagarmatha National park and necessary permit fee.
Scheduled flight : Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu
50 Kg cargo from Kathmandu/lukla and 35 kg cargo Lukla/Kathmandu per climber
Necessary porters and mules for carrying equipment & loads
Twin sharing accommodation in lodge/teahouse while trekking
3 times meals per day, teas & coffees in trekking & base camp days
Common climbing equipments like necessary rope, ice bars, ice screws etc
1 tent per climber of North face or similar for Base Camp
Dining, Kitchen, Store tent, mattress and all camping facilities needed in BC
Experienced and professional staff at BC : Base camp manager, cook, kitchen boy
Government liaisons officer
Equipment allowance, wages, life, medical & life, medical & rescue insurance for all Nepali members.
Emergency oxygen, mask & regulator at ABC (use and pay)
Immediate Rescue co-ordination (covered by your travel insurance)
Generator or solar panel for charging & lighting in Base camp
Satellite phone on pay call basis (1min = $ 5)
Walkie – talkie set
International flight ticket, taxes and visas
Lunch & dinner, hotel after 6 nights in Kathmandu
Personal trekking & climbing equipment
Excess personal climber baggage transport Ktm-lua-BC $ 9 per kg one way.
All expenses of personal nature like bar bills, laundry, telephone etc.
Insurance for travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost baggage.
Applicable permit fee & custom fee for SAT phone, filming camera, communications equipment (if brought)
Climbing Bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpa (if you use Sherpa), Tips for Base Camp Staff
All not mentioned in cost include part
Because of bad weather we could face problems with domestic flights to/from Lukla (Delayed or even canceled). It is very rare, but it could happen even in best trekking season. Thus, we always recommend you to add supplement night/s in Kathmandu after your trek if that is possible for you (just in case). If everything runs smoothly, you can enjoy other activities like sightseeing, white water rafting, wildlife activities, shopping, during the extra days.
Responsible tourism is something which our company takes very seriously. This is why we recommend you to read the following lines and learn about responsible tourism before your trip.
1. It is advisable to eat as the locals do: eat the rice, the lentils, the fresh fruit and vegetables.
2. Tourists tend to bring with them plastic water bottles, packets of crisps and chocolate bars for energy, so without thinking, they are adding to the rubbish problem. It’s fine to eat foods like that, but take your rubbish with you back to Kathmandu and throw in the bin there because up in the Himalaya, they bury it in the ground, or they burn it and that’s no good.
3. Respect any animals and wildlife you might encounter. Do not feed any animals unless you are specifically given permission, avoid picking flowers no matter how beautiful they may be, do not touch or move fossils, and importantly, don’t stroke dogs – they can be aggressive towards strangers and stray dogs in Nepal may carry rabies.
1. Before you buy souvenirs. Beautiful shahtoosh shawls are woven in the Himalayas from the wool of the Tibetan Antelope, or chiru. The chiru is now endangered as a result of hunting for its precious wool – avoid buying anything made from it.
2. Food & Taboos – once you’ve touched something to your lips, it’s considered polluted for everyone else. If you take a sip from your own, or someone else’s water bottle, try not to let it touch your lips and don’t eat from someone else’s plate or offer anyone food you’ve taken a bite of.
3. Right or Left? Mmm… Right! The left hand is reserved for washing after defecating. You can use it to hold a drink or cutlery while you eat, but don’t wipe your mouth, or pass food with it.
4. Right hand & Manners. To show respect, offer money, food or gifts with both hands, or with the right hand while the left touches the wrist.
5. Keep Calm. The Nepalese are a very calm and contemplative people. You may find yourself in social situations that are completely out of your western comfort zone, but it is important to remember that the locals exercise discretion in expressing their feelings, anger and affection towards each other. If you don’t understand something, ask quietly and be patient.
6. Think before you take pictures. It’s easy to get snap-happy when presented with Nepal’s incredible landscape and lifestyle. Remember, this may be your trip of a lifetime, but it’s their reality, so introduce yourself and ask permission. Whenever possible, it is good idea to ask for a postal address and follow through by sending photographs back to local families.
7. A conservative country. Women should have their legs and shoulders covered and men should wear full-length trousers and tops with long sleeves. The forehead is regarded as the most sacred part of the body and it’s impolite to touch an adult Nepali’s head. Do not stretch your legs in public or point your feet at anyone as feet are considered the lowest and dirtiest part of the body.
8. Girls in Kathmandu and Pokhara do wear shorts or short skirts, but this is new to Nepal and you run the risk of being seen as sexually available if you do the same.
9. Spitting is normal in Nepal and you will see men, women, and children spitting on the street. The same goes for littering. Don’t pull a local up for these behaviours, but don’t join in either.
10. Avoid showing affection in public. Although some younger couples hold hands in public, this is relatively new and it is still frowned upon.
11. Ancient and sacred sites: there are a few protocol that are handy to know and easy to follow: don’t climb on ruins, avoid touching any religious object, and when you walk around monuments and temples, do so in a clockwise direction, that is – keep the monument on your right. It is generally not a problem to enter temples, but take your shoes off when you do and don’t take photos while you’re in there
12. When visiting temples, respect both the place and the people that pray there. Do not throw anything into the fire as it considered sacred and, if for some reason – time of day, particular prayer time – you are not permitted to enter, accept this graciously and ask your guide to ask when might be a better time to come back.
13. Some Hindu temples and their innermost sanctums are usually out of bounds for nonbelievers, who pose the threat of ritual pollution. If you are allowed in, be respectful, take your shoes off before entering and don’t take photos unless you’ve asked permission.
14. Though no one will ever ask, a small donation to temple that you’re visiting will be much appreciated. Donations support the operations of the day. Place your donation on the altar, or if you want to make a specific donation look for a donation box.
15. If you’re granted an audience with a lama at a Buddhist temple or monastery, it’s traditional to present him with a kata: a ceremonial white scarf (usually sold nearby).
16. If you are invited into a private home for a meal, you can bring fruit or sweets, but don’t expect thanks – it is considered offensive to make a fuss in these situations. Take your shoes off when entering, unless shown otherwise. When the food is served you may be expected to eat first, so you won’t be able to follow your host’s lead. Take less than you can eat – asking for seconds is the best compliment you can give. The meal is typically served at the end of a gathering and when the food is finished, everyone leaves.
17. Don’t give pens, money, or sweets to the local people you encounter on visits to villages and it can encourage begging and may be seen to establish a non-equal relationship between tourist and local with tourists being seen as simply ‘givers’ giving to ‘the poor’. Instead, buy local handicrafts directly from villagers and show an interest in their skills. Sweets may seem like an ideal gift for children, but access to dentists is extremely limited to rural dwellers and the last thing you want to give them is tooth decay!
18. Hassle by touts is on the rise in Nepal and it’s likely you’ll get accosted at the airport and in Kathmandu and offered drugs, treks and sex. They’re not as aggressive as in India – ignore them and they’re likely to ignore you. If they don’t, ask politely if they’ll leave you alone – do not be rude, as they’ll take it personally.
19. Dealing with beggars is par for the course in Nepal. Adjust to the pathos quickly – few beggars are bona fide and helping those that are will only encourage those that aren’t. Do not give away medicines either; instead donate them to the destitute at Kathmandu’s Bir Hospital, or at the Himalayan Buddhist Meditation Centre in Kathmandu.
20. The litter problem in Nepal is growing and has increased with the wider availability of pre-packaged goods. Keep your waste to a minimum – avoid accepting plastic bags from shops and reuse the ones you have, buy additional food from local markets to avoid packaging, take an empty plastic bag with you on treks, so you can pick up any additional litter you might spot and take particularly harmful waste, such as batteries, back to Kathmandu with you.
21. Marijuana and other ‘recreational’ drugs are widely available in Nepal although totally illegal. If caught in possession, drugs carry huge fines and up to 20 years imprisonment.
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